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Sat
20
Sep '08

Southern Comfort Foods: Sweet Potato and Country Ham BBQ Hash

The confusion begins with the name… so let’s start with what barbecue hash isn’t:

1. Barbeque hash isn’t “barbequed” i.e., it’s not cooked on a barbeque grill. It’s served with barbeque, which, in South Carolina at least, is a noun that refers to the meat itself (which is always pork, by the way) not the method of cooking.

2. Barbeque hash isn’t even a distant cousin to the greasy, canned corned-beef-and-potato stuff served at roadside diners everywhere

Barbeque hash is a side-dish staple at any self-respecting South Carolina barbecue shack or buffet. Beyond defining it as a thick savory liquid often ladled over rice (especially here in the Lowcountry,) it really is open to broad - often very broad - interpretation. Consider the three recipe links below, all from the same site, and all calling themselves South Carolina-style hash:

http://www.bbq-porch.org/recipes/html/r1944.htm
http://www.bbq-porch.org/recipes/html/r1344.htm
http://www.bbq-porch.org/recipes/html/r1871.htm

BBQ hash can range in color from orange-red to gray-brown and can contain a wide variety of vegetables (or no vegetables at all) and just about any meat (and meat “parts”) you can imagine. Spices, sauces, and other condiments often find their way in, and their identities are often jealously guarded. The texture ranges from applesauce smooth to sausage gravy chunky. It can be peppery, hot, tangy, sweet - or any combination thereof.

Barbeque hash, in short, has a broad mandate and is limited by few requirements except that it be flavorful, tasty, and addictive. This recipe was inspired by the hash at Duke’s in North Charleston, where they keep it simple with just four main ingredients: pork barbeque, potatoes, onions, and ketchup. Here, I use both white and sweet potatoes, and use finely minced country ham (the real stuff!) for its inimitable flavor.

Horseradish and a good dose of pepper “bring the zing” and balance the sweetness very nicely.

Here’s a photo of the Sweet Potato and Country Ham BBQ Hash below.

Doug DuCap's Sweet Potato and Country Ham BBQ Hash

Ingredients:

2 lb lean country ham, cut into small chunks
2 lbs russet potatoes, peeled
2 lbs sweet potatoes, peeled
2 lbs yellow onions, peeled
Water
1 tsp cider vinegar
3 Tbsp prepared horseradish
1/2 cup ketchup
1 Tbsp Kitchen Bouquet or equivalent
1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp celery salt
1 Tbsp black pepper

PREPARATION:

Fry the country ham chunks in a heavy skillet over medium heat until lightly colored, stirring frequently. Set aside to cool.

In a food processor, grate or mince the russets, sweet potatoes, and onions and place in a large pot. Add about 3 cups of water and the cider vinegar and bring just to a boil. In the meantime, finely mince the country ham in the food processor and add to the potatoes and onions. Stir in the horseradish, ketchup, Kitchen Bouquet, Worcestershire, and celery salt, and cook over very low heat for 1 hour, stirring frequently and adding more water as needed (you want a ‘thick soup’ consistency.)

Add the black pepper, taste for salt (add a bit of plain salt, if necessary) and cook 15 minutes more. Serve over Carolina rice.

Enjoy!

You Can Read More of Doug’s Recipe Corner Here.

ehow Version

Please join us tomorrow for the seventh day of this week’s Southern Comfort Foods Series when we’ll be sharing details, photos, and memories about a very special culinary road trip where we’ll explore the four corners of Carolina BBQ.


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Tue
6
May '08

Hope for Southern Expats in NYC Looking for a Taste of Home

According to an article in Gothamist:

“Between the New York Times barbecue cover story last week and the giveaway pulled pork yesterday in Madison Square Park, it would seem as though New York is going all kinds of rubbed and sauce-slathered crazy (don’t forget to free up the second week of June for the mammoth Big Apple Barbecue).

While the current media blitz over toasted bones and brash pit masters inevitably continues, Gothamist would like to divert just a little of your attention to some barbecue-appropriate side dishes and accoutrements, in particular, from the Carolinas and Georgia.”

You can read more of the article here.

Gothamist also has a nice article about The Carolina Country Store in Brooklyn here which was discussed here on Chowhound. Mentioned in the previous article, Poor Freddies Rib Shack was named one of the best places to eat in NY by the Village Voice and was raved about here by the folks at Chowhound.
Among the often hard-to-find items expats from the South can enjoy there are bone-in country ham, pimento cheese, hoop cheese (rat cheese), red franks, and boiled peanuts as well as the far easier to find hush puppy mixes and bags of grits.


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Wed
23
Apr '08

Cooking With Coffee (and Espresso)!

Just how addicted to coffee are you? Do you ever wish you could be permanently hooked up to a coffee I.V.? (If so, see the cartoon to the right.)

What about using coffee as a homemade beauty treatment to firm and tone the skin? (Supposedly you can.) Do you have Starbucks Finder installed on your handheld PDA so you can get your fix anywhere you go?

Then cooking with coffee is the next step in your addiction cycle.

Beyond tiramisu and other obvious coffee flavored desserts, coffee and/or espresso can be used to make a wide variety of interesting marinades, rubs, and sauces. If you’ve ever known the deep pleasure of eating country ham and red-eye gravy, you’re already well on your way to enjoying coffee as a culinary enhancement.

Here’s a few main meal recipes featuring coffee as an ingredient:

Honore Balzac: The Patron Saint of CoffeeBy the way, it is said that French writer Honore de Balzac drank up to 40 strong cups of coffee a day. He went on to write 92 novels and his essay, The Pleasures and Pain of Coffee, gives one a fascinating/horrifying glimpse of his all-too-caffeinated life.

As Balzac goes on to write in the essay…

“For a while - for a week or two at most - you can obtain the right amount of (creative) stimulation with one, then two cups of coffee brewed from beans that have been crushed with gradually increasing force and infused with hot water.

For another week, by decreasing the amount of water used, by pulverizing the coffee even more finely, and by infusing the grounds with cold water, you can continue to obtain the same cerebral power.

When you have produced the finest grind with the least water possible, you double the dose by drinking two cups at a time; particularly vigorous constitutions can tolerate three cups. In this manner one can continue working for several more days.

Finally, I have discovered a horrible, rather brutal method that I recommend only to men of excessive vigor, men with thick black hair and skin covered with liver spots, men with big square hands and legs shaped like bowling pins. It is a question of using finely pulverized, dense coffee, cold and anhydrous, consumed on an empty stomach. This coffee falls into your stomach, a sack whose velvety interior is lined with tapestries of suckers and papillae. The coffee finds nothing else in the sack, and so it attacks these delicate and voluptuous linings; it acts like a food and demands digestive juices; it wrings and twists the stomach for these juices, appealing as a pythoness appeals to her god; it brutalizes these beautiful stomach linings as a wagon master abuses ponies; the plexus becomes inflamed; sparks shoot all the way up to the brain. From that moment on, everything becomes agitated. Ideas quick-march into motion like battalions of a grand army to its legendary fighting ground, and the battle rages. Memories charge in, bright flags on high; the cavalry of metaphor deploys with a magnificent gallop; the artillery of logic rushes up with clattering wagons and cartridges; on imagination’s orders, sharpshooters sight and fire; forms and shapes and characters rear up; the paper is spread with ink - for the nightly labor begins and ends with torrents of this black water, as a battle opens and concludes with black powder.

I recommended this way of drinking coffee to a friend of mine, who absolutely wanted to finish a job promised for the next day: he thought he’d been poisoned and took to his bed, which he guarded like a married man. He was tall, blond, slender and had thinning hair; he apparently had a stomach of papier-mache. There has been, on my part, a failure of observation.”

Balzac died at the age of 51. Ironically enough, Ebook Takeaway offers 51 of his books that you can download free of charge here. There’s also some great coffee trivia here as well as Food & Wine’s Obsessive Guide to Coffee.


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Thu
13
Dec '07

Charleston Chili: The Grand Prize Winning Recipe in the Taste of the South Competition

Here’s the Grand-Prize Winning recipe, Charleston Chili by Doug DuCap, from the Taste of the South Recipe Competition which was judged by the Lee Brothers.

The recipe features pulled pork barbecue, country ham, boiled peanuts, and black-eyed peas instead of the usual beef and beans.

Makes 6 servings


Ingredients:

5 large garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil
1 tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon cumin
1 large white onion, chopped
2 cups chopped green bell peppers (about 2 large)
2 medium poblano chilies, skin and seeds removed (see cook’s notes), chopped
1/2 teaspoon crushed thyme
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 cup minced country ham
3 scallions, diced
3 cups shelled boiled peanuts, preferably green (about 4-5 pounds before shelling)
1 can (15-ounce) black-eyed peas, rinsed and drained (about 1 1/2 cups)
3 cups water
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 or 2 chipotle chiles, minced (see cook’s notes)
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
4 cups pulled pork barbecue, divided for use (see cook’s notes)
1 teaspoon spicy brown mustard
1 teaspoon honey
Salt to taste

Cook’s Notes:

Roast or char poblano chiles over a flame to blister the skin for easy removal.

Chipotle chiles come in a can packed in adobo sauce.

DuCap makes his own pulled pork barbecue, but other options are purchasing it or using leftover roast pork, pulled into chunks and seasoned with high-quality hickory smoke seasoning. His barbecue starts with a homemade wet rub for the meat — Boston butt and pork loin — that includes celery salt, black pepper, cayenne pepper, brown sugar, cider vinegar and brown mustard. He hickory-smokes the pork for at least three hours and then finishes the meat in a 225-degree oven for another four hours or more.

Directions:

In a large, deep skillet or heavy casserole, saute the garlic in the oil over medium heat for 1 minute. Stir in the paprika and cumin, then add the white onion, bell pepper, poblano, thyme and black pepper. Cook, stirring, until vegetables are just softened, about 6 to 8 minutes. Remove vegetables from pan and set aside.

In the same pan, cook the country ham for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the scallions, peanuts and black-eyed peas. Stir for a few minutes to meld the flavors. Return the onion/pepper mix to the pan, add the water, and stir in the tomato paste, chipotle chiles, Worcestershire sauce and vinegar. Stir in 3 cups of the pulled pork. Bring just to a boil and reduce heat, simmering uncovered for 40 minutes, stirring regularly.

Remove from heat and stir in the mustard and honey. Add salt to taste, if needed. Stir in the remaining pulled pork just before serving.

Serve with Carolina rice, cornbread, biscuits or white grits…enjoy!

(Doug DuCap Tending the Pork)

You Can Read More of Doug’s Recipe Corner Here.

Note: This article is also available in the following convenient format(s)…

ehow Version


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Wed
12
Dec '07

The Post and Courier: Winning Chili Gets Homey Accent

(Photo by Wade Spees/ The Post and Courier)

Here’s a comprehensive article about the Taste of the South Contest that appeared in today’s (12/12/07) issue of Charleston, South Carolina’s The Post and Courier by Food Editor Teresa Taylor with photos by Wayne Spees.

There’s some great coverage of and interviews with all of the competition winners and judges as well as delicious recipes from Ron Ormrod, whose Little River BBQ Oysters won the appetizer category and Lorraine Hiltz, whose Pecan-Butterscotch Cheesecake won the dessert category.

(link)


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